Have you ever seen a man, walking down the street, wearing a suit and thought that something does not look right, but you could not figure out what? Most probably the reason is the breaking of one of the following three rules:
1. The length of the suit needs to go down till the lower side of the hip and will always cover the pockets of the trousers; a longer jacket will only make your legs look shorter and disproportional.
Another way to check the right length of the jacket is holding your hands near your body with your fists closed; the seam of the jacket should stop at the same length as your fists.Besides the length of it, the jacket needs an accentuated waistline, to create that subtle hourglass shape that compliments any outfit and shapes your shoulders.
2. The correct length of a made to measure jacket’s sleeve will always leave 1,5 – 2 cm of the shirts sleeve on sight; the shirt will, as well, stop at the wrist at the base of your thumb. A jacket that covers the shirts sleeve too much, will look too big, as well as one that reveals too much of the shirts sleeve, will look small and will uplift too much when moving your hands.
Not so many people know the reason why this is the correct length. The reason is not just because of the design, but it’s a practical reason too; if the jackets sleeve will be in direct contact with the skin it will just corrode the fabric of the suit because of the sweat or any other external factors close to your wrists. The same principle is for the jackets collar, the collar of the shirt should be 2cm on sight at the back of the neck.
3. Another important aspect about the made to measure jacket is the shape and size of the shoulders. When the suit is the right size on your shoulders, it should not feel too comfortable or too tight when moving your arms. If the shoulders of your jacket are too big, a bothering wave will appear while moving your arms.
A made to measure jacket will always look impeccable and it will look like a personal belonging to the one wearing it. To summarize, the shoulders should follow the natural body and shoulders line of the person wearing it.
If you want to make sure you pick the right and essential pieces of clothing for your wardrobe and get free advice from our style advisors, you can pay us a visit in one of our Tudor Personal Tailor’s showrooms in Bucharest, Cluj and Timisoara.